tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49243723318757835272024-03-13T16:05:21.227+01:00 Dreaming of ParisGonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comBlogger131125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-78926666361210961982012-07-10T11:30:00.000+02:002023-09-13T12:52:28.339+02:00New beginnings <p>On the way to the airport the next day, we were quiet and pensive as we rode our taxi van, packed to the rafters with suitcases and carry-on luggage, just like the day we arrived. </p><p>There was sadness in the air, how could there not be? Paris welcomed us with open arms and became our home. And now it was over. Dianny and I truly loved living there and did not want to leave. Yet from the day we arrived we knew this day would come; we knew it was for just a year, and then it was back to Seattle. </p><p>Except that we're not moving back to Seattle. We're moving to Bogotá. We had finally decided to make it happen. We were going back home.</p><p>Moving back to Colombia was something I'd been struggling with before we decided to move to Paris and something I thought about a lot during our year in Paris. I was aware that moving to Colombia wasn't the kind of thing most people dreamt of doing; but how could I know if it was the right decision if I never took it? If moving to Paris taught us anything it's that taking chances is part of life and sometimes things work out really.</p><p>After being considered in the mid-90s one of the most dangerous places in the world, security had improved and violence had decreased in the previous decade. </p><p><span style="background-color: #fcff01;">It's amazing what a change in perspective can do to help you move forward/get unstuck/see things more clearly… Living in Paris had helped me take a step back and see things in a different light. By having time off and away, I had a fresh perspective, I felt audacious and adventurous, and since we had already uprooted from Seattle, it seemed easier to keep the momentum rather than go back to Seattle. In a way, we knew we could never go back to our old lives….. We had made Paris ours, and this short experience had infused us with new confidence and fresh perspectives I also knew the decision didn’t have to be permanent and that, worst case scenario, we could always go back to the States. So we didn't talk about moving back or moving for good, we just saw it as the next stage of our lives. Living there would be a good experience for us as a family, and we were committed to trying it out for at least a couple of years and then we'd take it from there. Every achievement begins with the decision to try, and those decisions sometimes become great stories. </span><br /><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIycc3U3cVwF7d5FG1ENs7smu1nG1BusJR2BxbGvO3OayxXHoG4F-wWQvCK7rhwoC3EaogRXCmxVTzLELPg9ZUhh2C4dNzMjlIFaRwFef2hXVpYovSm5GFYORvKfgySkdFr1L1fr9KCE/s1600/Bogota.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="483" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIycc3U3cVwF7d5FG1ENs7smu1nG1BusJR2BxbGvO3OayxXHoG4F-wWQvCK7rhwoC3EaogRXCmxVTzLELPg9ZUhh2C4dNzMjlIFaRwFef2hXVpYovSm5GFYORvKfgySkdFr1L1fr9KCE/w640-h483/Bogota.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p><br />When we decided to move to Paris last year everyone told us how great it was that the kids would learn another language. While that's true, learning a third language was never our main goal; it's always been more important to us that they master Spanish, our family's native language, which is one of the reasons why we're moving to Colombia. But of course, once they started learning French, we realized it would be wonderful if they could keep it up.</p><p>And now they'll get to do both.<br /><br />When we started thinking of moving back to Colombia after our year here was over, we applied for admission to the Lycée Français of Bogotá, the official French school in Bogotá. We didn't know how much of a chance they'd have, but thanks to their current school being part of the French school system, their report cards, and the glowing recommendation from the headmistress, the Lycée accepted them right away and have so far made us feel very welcome.</p><p>The Lycée is just a few streets away from where I grew up in Bogotá. It was founded in 1934 by a few Colombians returning from France who were attracted to the French culture and wanted to provide a French education to their children. The school is accredited and partially funded by the French government through <a href="http://www.aefe.fr/">AEFE</a> (Agency for French Education Abroad), a unique network of schools in about 130 countries that was created to help promote the French language and culture.<br /><br />We're happy and proud the kids will be going there. And <i>we </i>get to remain in <i>la Francophonie</i>.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaCgcH1DJjX10p-Ed65QFOc5HYHxiVdoOhhrR3CKUmRaHW-qlqScQrAaJIb19R9-Obo_ccgnLGZ89IPAvXlYfFIYt0mm6HUDiQiyDuB-9kD276OirtYJvvxDl5yJjFP2_lS23gJHP9izDkNjDK8UwDVXyhyuDZ8QFrrfIPMFbuIc-7yrS4TjQwDesAtY/s1861/Lyc%C3%A9e_fran%C3%A7ais_de_Bogota.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1403" data-original-width="1861" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaCgcH1DJjX10p-Ed65QFOc5HYHxiVdoOhhrR3CKUmRaHW-qlqScQrAaJIb19R9-Obo_ccgnLGZ89IPAvXlYfFIYt0mm6HUDiQiyDuB-9kD276OirtYJvvxDl5yJjFP2_lS23gJHP9izDkNjDK8UwDVXyhyuDZ8QFrrfIPMFbuIc-7yrS4TjQwDesAtY/w640-h482/Lyc%C3%A9e_fran%C3%A7ais_de_Bogota.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlk9WgW0WB7Ze_KoJEWFYhCMcXSDipJ0GzxjSxMC_UCuEHqgFIM7MTk_dDhB0gSv9L8oTAV8n04zHAW2GrMaLkhfjbrhMEsZe5njZWzLluFF5UtM5X-kRyS00HnMNvk9ZS0eqBeSuEru87pLJgcwG2MXv2XSoKhFqAMmwe4MjsEAau7cJQaLQoO83s-BQ/s835/liceo%20frances2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="835" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlk9WgW0WB7Ze_KoJEWFYhCMcXSDipJ0GzxjSxMC_UCuEHqgFIM7MTk_dDhB0gSv9L8oTAV8n04zHAW2GrMaLkhfjbrhMEsZe5njZWzLluFF5UtM5X-kRyS00HnMNvk9ZS0eqBeSuEru87pLJgcwG2MXv2XSoKhFqAMmwe4MjsEAau7cJQaLQoO83s-BQ/w640-h468/liceo%20frances2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Definitely a new adventure, one's that's part scary, part exciting. </div><div><br /></div><div>But then I remembered Hemingway’s words in <i>A Moveable Feast</i>: “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast." I was not as young as Hemingway was when he lived in Paris, but I knew Paris would also stay with me all the same. </div>Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-90666503999391572582012-07-09T09:38:00.005+02:002023-09-11T19:33:25.240+02:00Au revoir, Paris<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Today is my birthday. I can’t think of a better way of celebrating it than by being in this beautiful city. <div><br /></div><div>Today is also our last day here, and we spent part of the day finishing packing and cleaning up and meeting with our landlady, but we made time for a special dinner at one of our favorite nearby brasseries, L'Etoile 1903. One last confit de canard, one last carafe of wine before we head back to reality.<div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was going to title this entry "Goodbye, Paris," but I realized that although it's time to go, this is not goodbye, it's just <i>au revoir</i>―till we see each other again. <div><br /></div><div>A year ago we were dreaming of Paris. Now we’ve lived out our dream, and beneath the sadness of leaving is a feeling of joy and happiness, a sense of accomplishment for having taken the chance to live our dream and deep gratitude for having been able to live such a wonderful experience.</div><div><div><br /></div>
We joke that this may be the best year of our lives, but if it’s not, it certainly will be one of the best. The kids enjoyed it too, and have even thanked us for bringing them here ("making us come to Paris" may have been someone's exact words).<div><br /></div><div>"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened."<br />― Dr. Seuss<br />
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Of course I love crêpes, especially the sugar crêpes, but there are many things to love about this place. At the top of my list are all the sidewalk cafés, but there's all the other obvious things like the monuments and the architecture and the museums and the boulevards and the Seine and the history and the language and the atmosphere and the outdoor markets and the wine and the food and the cheese and the bread and the pastries and, oh my, I could keep going on forever.<br />
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I've loved seeing all the famous sites and monuments, and discovering new ones, reading about places and then visiting them, learning more about the history of Paris, going to parks and cafés and brasseries, enjoying the food and the wine, walking everywhere, and just absorbing the atmosphere.<br />
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But I think what I've loved the most this year is our neighborhood.<br />
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When we rented our apartment we did not know this area of the city. It's off the tourist path, so you don't normally come this way when you're visiting Paris. So when we got here we felt a bit like strangers. At the beginning it was just a few scattered streets that we walked up and down as we got to know the area and found our way to the school and the stores we'd need to use the most. Little by little, as they became more familiar, those streets started seamlessly weaving themselves into what became our neighborhood, the wonderful neighborhood we have come to love.<br />
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Possibly the biggest compliment you can get as a visitor is when someone stops you to ask for directions, especially if that someone is Parisian. Usually they'll start by asking if you are from the neighborhood, to which you bravely say "yes" while secretly praying that you get asked about a street or place you know. </div>
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We have tried as much as possible to live like the locals. We walk our kids to school and take them to the local park. We buy bread on the way back from school and do all of our shopping in our neighborhood. We love to frequent our local cafés and brasseries. We say our <i>bonjours </i>and <i>au revoirs </i>when we enter and leave stores and cafés, are polite with our neighbors, and stop to chat with the building <i>gardienne</i>. </div>
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As we came back from dinner the other night (we've been saying goodbye to places that've become favorites this year), we mentioned how great it is to be able to just walk to and from the restaurant, not having to worry about driving or parking or how much wine you've had—plus, there's nothing like taking a leisurely stroll after dinner.<br />
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There's not just one Paris, but many, and each one revolves around its neighborhood. We've visited and gotten to know many of them, but when we return to our neighborhood we feel right back at home.<br />
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A local friend told me that many times when people are looking for a new apartment they stay in the same neighborhood. They know all the local places and don't want to start all over. We can relate to that, and have even wondered that if we ever spend some time here again, would we live in the same neighborhood?<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-73907000697319049042012-07-04T08:30:00.002+02:002023-09-11T19:52:07.191+02:00School's outYesterday was the last day of school. This is a milestone we did not want to reach because it means the end of our Parisian adventure. But it's also a major achievement because all three kids did absolutely great this year—in every possible way. Their third trimester grades were great, but beyond grades we can see they've thrived and learned a new language and generally grown so much that we can call this crazy adventure a success. The school also exceeded our expectations and we feel lucky to have been able to be a part of their 2011-2012 immersion program.<div><br />
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The kids are, of course, happy that school is over, but they're also a bit sad because they know what it means, and after making so many great friendships and sharing so much this year with all the other kids, they wouldn't mind staying longer.<br />
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We wouldn't mind staying longer either. But we know we must move on.<br /><br />
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</div>Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-3942382067696113392012-07-02T22:17:00.000+02:002013-06-11T02:17:08.668+02:00End-of-school-year stuffLast week things started winding down at school and we had some class presentations as well as the end-of-school show and festival. We got to visit the kids' classrooms and see some of work they did during the year. It was fun to be in those same classrooms we saw the first day of school, when this adventure was just starting and we had no idea how it would go.<br />
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The school show and festival took place at the Paris IV campus of the Sorbonne. The first part of the show was based on the Lion King's Circle of Life entrance song, for which the twins dressed up as condors; then Andrea's class did a few songs choreographed by the school's primary director.<br />
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After the shows were over we stayed for a while at the school festival, where they had some outdoor food and entertainment and we got to hang out with all the other parents.</div>
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We've also had farewell picnics at the park and have generally just been enjoying the nice weather and everyone's company. And even though we're still here, I think I am already missing Paris...<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-1097671255122986952012-07-01T23:23:00.000+02:002013-03-23T00:30:46.239+01:00Fête des TuileriesEvery summer the Tuileries Gardens hosts a carnival on their grounds. When we were here two summers ago we loved going there, and when we got here last August we were looking forward to going back but they had just shut it down, so we're glad we were able to make it before leaving Paris next week.<br />
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The main attraction for us oldies was the Ferris wheel, or as Nicolás says, the Perris wheel, from where many of the pictures below were taken. For the kids, without a doubt, it was the floating balls.<br />
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On the way back home we made a quick stop before Napoleon's statue at the top of the Vendôme column.<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-65938373940797258272012-06-30T19:47:00.000+02:002013-08-28T19:02:42.320+02:00Marché Poncelet <br />
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The Marché on Rue Poncelet is the quintessential Parisian <i>marché</i>, an authentic street market offering the best fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, bread, wines, cheeses, German coffee, pastries, and even a handy little hardware store.<br />
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It’s just a couple of blocks away from our apartment and is open every day of the week, which is rare in Paris, so this is where we get our croissants on Sunday mornings. It’s right across the street from our Monoprix, where we do our day-to-day grocery shopping, but when we want to do the more typical French thing, or get a fresh roasted chicken or fresh anything, then a visit to this market is warranted.<br />
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The first time you go it's a bit intimidating; everyone is so friendly and eager to help that you don't know where to stop first. Before buying produce, for example, they'll ask you when you're going to eat it. Want avocado for tomorrow? No problem, they'll sell you the right one. And everything looks so good that you end up "eating with your eyes" and buying more than you should. And it's not cheap.<br />
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Our all-time favorite is Comtesse du Barry, a store specialized in foie gras, patés, and terrines, and matching wines. The name Comtesse du Barry was created in reference to the owners' name (the Dubarry family) and that of the comtesse du Barry (Jeanne Bécu), the mistress of Louis XV.<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-38385796962880169332012-06-27T20:56:00.000+02:002013-08-30T04:24:43.789+02:00The Saint Anne at the Louvre<br />
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On the occasion of the restoration of "The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne," Leonardo da Vinci's portrayal of St. Anne with her daughter and grandson, the Louvre Museum hosted a major exhibition around this masterpiece, one of his most famous works after the Mona Lisa<br />
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For the first time, Leonardo's masterpiece<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">, </span></span>in process for years and left unfinished upon his death in 1519<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">, </span></span>was exhibited along with his compositional sketches, preparatory drawings, landscape studies, and the National Gallery of London’s Burlington House Cartoon, a magnificent full-size preparatory study of The Virgin and Child with St Anne and St John the Baptist<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">. </span></span>Related works by other artists, as well as other painted artworks by da Vinci were also used to show how the Saint Anne is the true culmination of the artist’s numerous and varied explorations on nature and art.<br />
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We also took time to visit the Napoleon III apartments, and small and large dining rooms, which offer an exceptional record of Second Empire decorative art and which we had not been able to see in previous visits to the Louvre.<br />
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Afterwards, a nice coffee at Café Marly, a contemporary brasserie located under the arcades of the Richelieu wing, decorated in Second Empire style.</div>
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-17228725325021860192012-06-26T20:30:00.000+02:002013-08-30T04:25:08.494+02:00Musée Rodin Right next door to Les Invalides is the Rodin Museum, so after our tour of Les Invalides we visited the museum's gardens.<br />
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Rodin, one of France's treasured artists, donated his entire collection of sculptures to the French State on the condition that they turn the Hôtel Biron, the building he used as his workshop, into a museum dedicated to his works.<br />
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The museum's beautiful gardens are a haven of peace and quiet, and there are many people just reading or relaxing. It costs only one euro to access the gardens, where there's also a cafeteria near the small pond, where we had lunch.<br />
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Many of Rodin's incredible sculptures are displayed in the museum's extensive gardens, of which, of course, The Thinker has a prominent place. Also shown below are Monument to Balzac, Burghers of Calais, The Three Shadows, and The Gates of Hell, which depicts a scene from "The Inferno," the first section of Dante Alighieri's <i>Divine Comedy</i>.<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-67897006571579761872012-06-25T09:30:00.000+02:002013-06-10T03:39:10.543+02:00Les Invalides Our last tour with Paris Walks was to Les Invalides, officially known as L'Hôtel National des Invalides, a hospital and retirement home for war veterans built under Louis XIV.<br />
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Les Invalides is a huge building complex that today also contains several museums and monuments related to the military history of France: the Musée de l'Armée (the museum of the Army), the Musée des Plans Reliefs, a museum of three-dimensional military models of fortified cities, and the Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine. <br />
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The building complex has fifteen courtyards, the largest of which is the Court of Honor, always under the watchful eye of Napoleon.<br />
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The complex also includes the Chapel of Saint Louis des Invalides, which was the church for the soldiers, and the Eglise du Dôme, a separate private royal chapel later commissioned by Louis XIV, where he intended to be buried, and which now serves as the burial site for Napoleon, his son, his two brothers, and some of France's war heroes, such as Marechal Foch, beloved French military hero of the First World War, shown here.<br />
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Its tall, golden dome can be seen from many parts of Paris. The U.S. Capitol's current dome was inspired by the dome at Les Invalides.<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-14432240988045405252012-06-23T21:46:00.001+02:002013-03-15T03:51:59.041+01:00Disneyland ParisWe held out as long as possible but finally took the kids to Disneyland Paris. <br />
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There's something funny about having a place like Disneyland in Europe. Disneyland has always seemed fake to me, but here it feels even more. Euro Disney, as it was originally called, was surrounded by lots of controversy and got off to a bad start. In 1995 it was renamed Disneyland Paris, "as a way of identifying it with one of the most romantic and exciting cities in the world." But there's nothing Parisian about it—even the food is bad. Fortunately it's just a short train ride from Paris, and the park is small enough that you can cover most of it in a day.<br />
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But it was a beautiful day and the kids had a good time, which is what matters. We loved getting lost in Alice's Curious Labyrinth, an attraction that's unique to Disneyland Paris, and I ended up having to ride the Space Mountain with Andrea (she loved it; I hated it, and I almost lost my lunch on it).<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-19394179058967824562012-06-21T19:15:00.000+02:002013-03-14T22:24:19.971+01:00More birthdaysMy niece Laura, my sister Alina's daughter who's been attending university in Paris this semester, had her birthday last week. We had cake and a few friends over to sing Happy Birthday to her.<br />
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My sister was also in Paris, since they were planning on doing some traveling together. Unfortunately, that was before Laura hurt her knee badly the night before her birthday; she has to have an operation and both will be returning to Bogotá shortly.<br />
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Just two days later it was my sister's birthday, so we took her out to lunch to our beloved La Fabbrica, a great Italian restaurant that has preserved the old bakery shop frontage. The restaurant is very close to our apartment, so Laura hopped along on her crutches. </div>
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And later at home, millefeuilles for everyone when the kids arrived from school.</div>
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-79386754208056723692012-06-19T20:49:00.001+02:002016-07-04T19:18:51.175+02:00Fountains and light show at Versailles On weekends from late spring to early autumn, the Palace of Versailles presents the "Grandes Eaux Nocturnes," a beautiful water, light, and sound show in the Gardens of Versailles during which all the fountains in the gardens are in full play. The fountain show is enhanced by masterpieces of French baroque music.<br />
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We arrived in Versailles and were greeted by the equestrian statue of Louis XIV, who very early in his reign moved his court and government there because he disliked Paris. I wonder what he'd say if he saw the mobs of tourists and locals from Paris descending on Versailles every day.<br />
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The gates opened at 9 PM and once inside everyone just strolls around all the gardens and fountains at their leisure. In traditional French style they have a few kiosks where you can buy wine and champagne; there's also a couple that sell ice cream for the kids.<br />
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Even if you've been to Versailles before, you don't get to see the gardens this way. The lighting at the Bassin de Latone, the wedding-cake style fountain dedicated to the mother of Apollo, was just spectacular.</div>
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After sunset they had a spectacular firework display on the Grand Canal, against the backdrop of the famous Apollo Fountain. </div>
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The return to Paris on the 11:55 PM train was hard for the twins but all in all everyone loved the show.</div>
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-79684018562788151322012-06-17T09:30:00.000+02:002016-07-04T19:02:42.473+02:00Last Wednesday atelierThis past Wednesday the parents of kids who attend the French Workshop were invited to join their kids in some games, including bingo and answering questions about the places they have visited and general knowledge about the city of Paris. We learned, for example, that Paris has 37 bridges over the Seine.<br />
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Us parents also got to show off our knowledge of Paris and win prizes (we killed!), and at the end all the children received a medal and a diploma issued by the city of Paris that certifies them as real Parisians.<br />
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Afterwards we celebrated at Le Vigny, the cafe next to the school where we still meet with other parents some mornings.<br />
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More significantly for us, this past atelier was their last one. This is the first real sign that our stay in Paris is winding down; there will be more the next two weeks, such as class presentations and the end-of-school show. And then we have just a few days left in Paris before we head back across the Atlantic. <i>Tempus fugit... </i><br />
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<i><br /></i>Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-7230179668045561692012-06-15T17:27:00.003+02:002021-04-20T12:51:57.647+02:00Musée de Cluny and Crypte Archéologique We finally made it to the National Museum of the Middle Ages, which is also known as the Musée de Cluny. The mansion formerly belonged to the abbots of Cluny, and was rebuilt in the late 15th century. The museum has a variety of important medieval artifacts, but probably the most important are the six La Dame à la Licorne (The Lady and the Unicorn) tapestries, from the late fifteenth century, a famous work of art from the Middle Ages.<br />
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Located in the in 5th arrondissement, the Musée de Cluny building is partially built on the remains of Gallo-Roman baths from the 3rd century (known as the Thermes de Cluny), which may still be visited. They constitute about one-third of a large bath complex that used to exist in the ancient city of Lutetia, the ancestor of present-day Paris.<br />
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The story of the city of Paris actually starts on the nearby Île de la Cité, in the middle of the Seine, which was settled by the Parisii, a Gallic tribe who settled in the area during the 3rd century BC. The area was eventually conquered by the Romans and became the Gallo-Roman city of Lutetia (<i>Lutetia Parisiorum</i> in Latin), which spilled over to the Left Bank. The city reclaimed its original appellation of 'Paris' towards the end of the Roman occupation.</div>
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Fast forward to the 20th century. On the Cité island, just beneath the Notre Dame de Paris cathedral square, while trying to build a subterranean parking lot, they discovered the foundations and vestiges of buildings that were constructed during the Gallo-Roman period. The site became the Crypte Archéologique du Parvis Notre Dame and is one of the 'History of Paris' museums of the City of Paris, which we also finally visited this week. The Crypte Archéologique is built around the archaeological remains and illustrates the origins of Paris and shows the life and setting of the Île de la Cité from the 3rd to the 19th centuries. </div>
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Very little is left of the ancient Gallo-Roman city, but in the 5th arrondissement, hidden behind some apartment buildings, some remains of the Arènes de Lutèce, a 1st century arena, still exist. The site was discovered in the 1860s when they were building Rue Monge and is now a public park.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">After our tour we meandered across the Seine toward Place du Chatelet, where the Fontaine du Palmier, or Fontaine de la Victoire, is located. It was built to provide fresh drinking water to the neighborhood and to celebrate French victories in battle. Its distinctive sphinxes were added later to commemorate Napoleon's victory in Egypt. </span><div><br /><div><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivXFf2LYjHuVgUQ4D_xqWfjAeGFAsO-C4PwqVr4QSzDybzTO_ZMuRiachMwxbuEsQrXbTTQoUTamoIy7kmVot5NkNxOYWqP8Sis4ALGoI_yQ5dHFJL0J-yvmHsFvHe1wwwlzS8F9j8rx8/s1600/6.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivXFf2LYjHuVgUQ4D_xqWfjAeGFAsO-C4PwqVr4QSzDybzTO_ZMuRiachMwxbuEsQrXbTTQoUTamoIy7kmVot5NkNxOYWqP8Sis4ALGoI_yQ5dHFJL0J-yvmHsFvHe1wwwlzS8F9j8rx8/s400/6.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: left;">On one side of the plaza we noticed </span>Le Zimmer, a café-restaurant we had been to during our vacation in Paris in July 2010. My brother and his wife were in town the morning we landed in Paris and invited us there for breakfast (which is why I look a bit jet-lagged in the picture...).</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Le Zimmer is right next to the Theatre du Chatelet and saw its heyday in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, but it was completely redone in 2000. When we were there in 2010 it was summer so we sat outside and never saw there was such a beautiful restaurant inside. This time we went inside for lunch. The place definitely feels very Parisian. </div>
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</div></div>Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-81493459582907949472012-06-10T21:30:00.008+02:002023-09-11T19:48:00.217+02:00One month to go On July 10 we leave Paris, which means we have exactly one month left here. It's hard to believe it's almost over; around this time last year we were planning our move to Paris. We had already found a school for the kids and were gathering all the documentation required for our French visas.<br />
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When we got here last August, a year seemed like an eternity. And now it's just a month away. Dianny and I will be sad to leave — we're feeling that way already — because we love this place and have had a beautiful time here. But we knew it was for just a year and we realize we must move on.<div><br /></div><div>A month is still along time, longer than most vacations, so we look forward to enjoying the time we have left in Paris.<br /><div>
<br />Ever onward.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHsFTQ8V6cyOfE8SN-QVSC6XBNeUHY0VJDSah__8rIZChZQn-TH78f9Iu1TMCPl4oUleKYwqIhnad5EVWJGJR_uTkHzk1mTp1D_8cpeNWmyE6S4uaDKwPlEoAtfytp-3R5R9pSM1ECP7hSo9dnjUtcuucgePT71puk2EugkS_7V0ngKM2ksWGEGPlo9I/s716/One%20month%20to%20go.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="715" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHsFTQ8V6cyOfE8SN-QVSC6XBNeUHY0VJDSah__8rIZChZQn-TH78f9Iu1TMCPl4oUleKYwqIhnad5EVWJGJR_uTkHzk1mTp1D_8cpeNWmyE6S4uaDKwPlEoAtfytp-3R5R9pSM1ECP7hSo9dnjUtcuucgePT71puk2EugkS_7V0ngKM2ksWGEGPlo9I/w640-h640/One%20month%20to%20go.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>
<br /></div></div>Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-48326737548390892802012-06-07T18:34:00.000+02:002016-01-09T22:57:53.047+01:00At the Paris Pinacotheque and Triadou HaussmanJoined by our new guest, my cousin Aleida from Mexico, we saw the Jonas Netter Collection at the Pinacothèque de Paris, an art gallery that also has temporary exhibitions of artwork.<br />
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Netter, an Alsatian, loved art and painting and was an influential collector. He could not afford the great Impressionists, so he became interested in less known artists. After discovering a painting by Modigliani, the Italian artist who worked mainly in France and became known for paintings and sculptures characterized by mask-like faces and elongated forms, he started buying all the works by Modigliani he found. Netter also noticed Soutine and discovered Utrillo and started buying them as well. The exhibition included works by Modigliani, Soutine, Utrillo, Valadon, Kisling, etc., and as much as possible recreated Jonas Netter’s collection as it was in his time.<br />
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By pure coincidence, Jocelyn, another cousin from Mexico, was also in Paris, so we all met up for lunch at Triadou Haussman, a favorite of ours on Boulevard Haussmann between the Grands Magasins and the Madeleine.<br />
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Not far from there, also on Boulevard Haussmann, is the Square Louis XVI, a tiny park that sits on the grounds of the former Madeleine Cemetery, where King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were buried after they had been guillotined. It is the only public place in Paris named after Louis XVI. In the square is the Chapelle Expiatoire (Expiatory Chapel), dedicated to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, although they are formally buried in the Basilica of Saint Denis.</div>
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-26120111700460921392012-06-03T19:04:00.000+02:002020-08-28T15:34:43.470+02:00Dianny's birthdayOn June 1st we celebrated Dianny's birthday at Del Papa, a great Italian restaurant in our neighborhood. My niece Laura was with us. Dianny had a great time, except for the embarrassing moment after dinner when the waiters brought her dessert with a burning candle while singing Joyeux Anniversaire, with the rest of the restaurant joining in.<span style="text-align: center;"> </span><br />
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<i>Un très bon anniverssaire, ma chérie!</i><br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-85170086146418983112012-05-30T15:13:00.000+02:002013-06-10T03:11:19.877+02:00Roland Garros For as long as I can remember I have been watching Roland Garros on TV. The French Open tennis championship is my favorite of the four major tennis tournaments, probably because during breaks the TV networks always do such a good job of showing idyllic views of Paris with an accordion playing in the background. So watching a live tennis match at Roland Garros has been on my bucket list way before living in Paris became a dream.<br />
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Last week while my sister was here we got tickets to the qualifications and spent a fun day at the Roland Garros tennis complex watching the top players training at the Suzanne Lenglen court.<br />
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Then this week Dianny and I we went back for a day of real tennis matches in Court Philippe Chatrier, known as Center Court. We caught the second half of the Gasquet–Zopp match, where the Frenchman defeated the Estonian, and then watched Nadal defeat the Italian Bolelli in straight sets in a packed stadium. We then saw Serena Williams win the first set against the 111th-ranked French player Virginie Razzano. Unfortunately by then it was 7 PM and we had to get the kids, and were surprised when we all got home that Razzano had won the second set in a tiebreaker and was winning in the third. After a breathtaking 12 deuces and eight match points, the French player knocked out Serena, which, besides us having been there, was the most newsworthy event in Week 1 at Roland Garros.<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-10352649742572820272012-05-28T20:38:00.000+02:002013-06-10T03:07:38.639+02:00BrugesWe spent the last weekend of May, also a long weekend, in Bruges, a medieval city that during its golden age was one of the leading commercial cities in Europe. Bruges is very well preserved and is filled with beautiful architecture, busy squares, narrow streets, and many canals. And of course, chocolate and lace and ice cream and waffle shops everywhere. And the occasional adult store right next to a kids' toy store.<br />
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Bruges is full of life, and there's an energy to the place that you usually only feel in larger urban cities. Yet it's small enough that you can walk everywhere, and we devoted most of our time to just walking around and feeling the great atmosphere.</div>
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There are two large town squares. The largest is the Markt (market square), where Bruges' most famous landmark, the ancient Belfry tower, is located. It's the one that appears in the quirky movie "In Bruges." Also on the Markt is the Provincial Court, a beautiful building that reminded me a bit of the Hotel de Ville in Paris. In the center of the market is the statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, two popular and very patriotic Flemish heroes. The Markt is also where you can catch a ride around Bruges in one of the horse carriages, which we did. Our driver shared many interesting facts that I've mostly forgotten, except that our horse's name was Falco.<br />
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Very near the Markt is the Burg, the other square where the beautiful Town Hall and the Old Civil Registry buildings are located. Almost hidden in one of the corners of the square is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, a minor basilica where a vial that allegedly contains a cloth with blood of Jesus Christ is kept.<br />
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Apart from the Belfry, there are other prominent landmarks, especially the Church of Our Lady, and Saint Salvator's Cathedral, whose tall towers appear in the background just about everywhere.<br />
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Oh, and on our last day we rented bikes and Daniela finally learned to ride by herself!<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-22984140007697357722012-05-25T13:24:00.000+02:002013-06-10T03:06:51.906+02:00More visitors! My sister Michelle and her husband were kind enough to visit us in Paris this week. After a couple of so-so days early in the week, the weather got beautiful and we had a great time visiting some of the sights and just enjoying Paris. We did a freezing Paris Walks tour of the Marais and introduced them to a few of our neighborhood favorites, like Parc Monceau and Le Hoche. Other things included a scrumptious breakfast at Ladurée with the best ever <i>pain perdu</i> (aka French toast), and even some of the training sessions at Roland Garros.<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-61277413909985861122012-05-20T12:00:00.000+02:002013-06-11T05:22:19.668+02:00LondonWe had a four-day weekend in the middle of May, so we took advantage of it to visit London; it's just a 2 hour and 15 minute ride on the EuroStar, the high-speed train that takes you from Paris to London's famous St. Pancras station via the Channel Tunnel.<br />
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London was busy—and this was before the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in June and the Olympics in July (all those people in the last picture were not going to the theater, they were just passing by). But we had good weather and a great location near the Victoria London train station. Although we barely scratched the surface, we got to do many of the usual suspects, such as the London Eye, Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St. James' Park, Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly, Harrods, Covent Garden, the Tower of London, and Tower Bridge.<br />
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We loved riding their double-decker buses down the narrow, congested streets, and were lucky to be able to get on one of the old ones. We even got last-minute tickets to The Lion King, the musical adaptation of the film, which the whole family loved and as our friend Karin mentioned, is a wonderful introduction to the theater for kids. Unfortunately we did not have time for museums—which I'm sure the kids weren't sad about—and many other things, so this is definitely a place we need to go back to in the future.<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-86125227165305904332012-05-16T18:02:00.000+02:002013-06-11T05:20:58.911+02:00Musée Cernuschi We finally visited the other mansion-turned-museum on Parc Monceau, the Musée d’Art Asiatique de Paris. This museum features a beautiful collection of Chinese art (Neolithic pottery, antediluvian bronzes, Buddha statues, funerary statuettes, and a collection of 20th-century paintings).<br />
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The museum was founded in 1898 by financier Henri Cernuschi (1821–1896) and is located in the small mansion next to Parc Monceau that used to be his home. Cernuschi bequeathed to the City of Paris his townhouse and the large assortment of Far Eastern art that he had collected during his travels.<br />
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There are about 900 objects on permanent exhibit, of which the most prominent is the huge Buddha of Meguro, a Japanese bronze from the 18th century. Other permanent exhibits include a fine collection of archaic bronze pieces, Han Dynasty objects, Funerary statues from the Northern Wei and Sui Dynasties, Tang Dynasty statues, Ceramics from the Tang and Song dynasties, and funerary masks in gilded bronze dating from the Liao Dynasty.<br />
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When we went they had the "Lacquer Dreams, the Japan of Shibata Zeshin," special exhibition. About 70 pieces of lacquerware, screens, paintings, decorative and usual objects were being presented for the first time in Paris, illustrating the masterful art of Shibata Zeshin (1807-1891).<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-55983767260789450902012-05-12T07:00:00.000+02:002013-03-11T14:52:48.203+01:00Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air Back in Paris after a bit of traveling, it was nice to take it easy and just go for a stroll at the Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air, an outdoor sculpture museum in the 5th arrondissement, right next to the beautiful Jardin des Plantes.<br />
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The museum is located on the banks of the Seine and stretches some 600 meters along the Quai Saint-Bernard between the Pont d’Austerlitz and the Pont de Sully.<br />
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On display are sculptures from the second half of the 20th century, including Reinhoud's disturbing "Melmoth" (from the Gothic novel <i>Melmoth the Wanderer</i>), pictured at the bottom. And since none of the sculptures are fenced off, you can take a very close look at them and even climb on them if you're a kid.<br />
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<br />Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4924372331875783527.post-903339514334132922012-05-09T15:00:00.000+02:002020-07-12T14:19:50.193+02:00Normandy coastAfter the Gaillard Castle and Caen we arrived at Arromanches, a coastal village in
the heart of the area where the Normandy landings took place on D-Day, 6 June
1944.<br />
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Arromanches sits on the coastline that was designated as
Gold Beach during the landings. This was the site for one of the two Mulberry harbors,
the prefabricated military harbors that were built in England and towed across the English Channel in sections and assembled off the coast after
the invasion. They comprised floating roadways and pierheads that went up and down with the tide.<br />
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"As we have no harbor at our disposal, we shall bring ours." —Lord Mountbatten</div>
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A few sections of the artificial harbor are still sitting on the
sand and more can be seen out at sea.<br />
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Today Arromanches is mainly a tourist town. There’s a great permanent exhibition with information about the invasion and in particular the amazing Mulberry
harbors. This was the first museum to be built in commemoration of the Normandy Campaign. The D-Day museum overlooks the very spot where the Mulberry harbor was set up.</div>
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We also visited the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, and
Omaha Beach, where they still have one of the old floating bridge pontoons. Although we've all seen these beaches and cliffs in films and photographs, it's a moving experience to be there in person and relive this incredible part of history.<br />
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Quite appropriately, a few days later we saw the 8th of May Celebration of the Allied Victory over Nazi Germany. People danced in the streets that cheerful day in 1945. This year they put on a full show at the Arc de Triomphe, including a review of the troops by outgoing president Nicolas Sarkozy, a beautiful rendition of Hans Zimmer's "The Battle," and of course "<i>La Marseillaise</i>."<br />
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As we all know, the United States entered World War II after the attack on Pearl Harbor and it was indispensable to the Allies winning the war. A few times I have overheard US Americans in Paris (usually the obnoxious US tourist) brag about how they saved the French during World War II. But few Americans know or recognize how important France (and to a lesser extent Spain) was to the American revolution. The Americans faced impending defeat in the face of the overwhelming military power of the British army and navy. France provided money, troops, armament, gunpowder, military leadership and naval support, which tipped the balance of power in favor of the Continental Army and paved the way for its ultimate victory. When British General Cornwallis surrendered at Yorktown in 1781, his defeated troops marched through a corridor formed by the victorious forces. On the right side stood the Americans; on the left, the French (this scene was depicted in John Trumbull's 1820 painting "Surrender of Lord Cornwallis," which is on display in the US Capitol).<br />
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Gonzalohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11595665874111987250noreply@blogger.com