Monday, December 19, 2011

Château de Vaux le Vicomte




Sunday we visited Château de Vaux le Vicomte, a beautiful palace completed in 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, the superintendent of finances under Louis XIV, on his estate of Vaux le Vicomte, about an hour from Paris. It’s a beautiful French chateau surrounded by a moat and vast, symmetrical gardens with basins and fountains in the back.





It's privately owned by the de Vogüé family and is open to the public. Every year they decorate it nicely for Christmas and even provide period costumes for the kids to wear during the visit. (We should have known better about letting Nicolás wear that hat; he got head lice from it.) We visited the salon, the library, the dining room, Fouquet's bedroom, a bath room, and the kitchen down below.









The story of this palace and its owner is funny because of a famous fête that took place in 1661 for the king. Fouquet's intentions were to flatter Louis XIV, but unfortunately for him his plan backfired. The king found the mansion and the celebration way too luxurious and extravagant and such display of wealth too audacious and insolent, generating perhaps jealousy and definitely suspicion of misappropriation of public funds, which caused Fouquet to fall out of favor with the king.

This scene is mentioned in Alistair Horne's Seven Ages of Paris: "At various points in the evening, Louis came close to losing his temper—whispering to his mother, 'Madame, shall we make these people disgorge?' Anne [of Austria] had to restrain him from arresting Fouquet on the spot, prudently calming Louis, 'No, not in his house, not at an entertainment he is giving for you.'" Shortly thereafter Fouquet was arrested (by D'Artagnan himself, captain of the Musketeers of the Guard) and sent to jail until his death.

Ironically, to build the chateau and gardens Fouquet had brought together the architect Louis Le Vau, the painter-decorator Charles Le Brun, and the garden landscape designer André Le Nôtre, who were then put to work by Louis XIV on the sumptuous Palace of Versailles, future residence of the kings of France.