We'd read that besides the one on Champs Elysees, there are many more Christmas markets in Paris, at La Defense, Trocadero, Hotel de Ville, Saint Germain des Pres, Saint Sulpice, so we decided to go see two that were close to each other.
First we went to the one in Place Saint Sulpice, which wasn't there. But it gave us an excuse to see the church of Saint Sulpice, with its mismatched towers, and the beautiful Fountain of the Four Bishops.
From there we went to see the market in Place Saint Germain des Pres, by the old church, and fortunately that one was there. It was nice to see so many people out on a cold Sunday. Some of the merchants were offering what looked like handcrafted products, such as embroidered little bags, soaps, hats and mittens, jewelry and little jewelry boxes, and table runners, which will make nice Christmas presents for the kids' teachers. Of course there were also the hot wine stands and the crêpes, that wonderful French invention, which certainly warmed our tummies.
We decided to head toward the Hotel de Ville, so we started walking down Rue Bonaparte towards the Seine. Halfway down Rue Bonaparte we took the narrow Rue Visconti, which showcases some of those slightly inclined old buildings.
We then took Rue de Seine, ending up at the Pont des Arts, a favorite among locals and tourists. Built originally in 1804, it was the first metal bridge in Paris. Its wooden deck is for pedestrians only, and on the railings couples place locks, presumably so their love remains locked forever. I suppose they throw the keys into the river.
The Pont des Arts bridge offers a great view of the Pont Neuf (the New Bridge), even when the day is this grey. The Pont Neuf, which consists of two separate spans, is currently the oldest bridge in Paris. It was inaugurated in 1607 under the reign of Henry IV and was the newest bridge at the time, hence its name. The false bastions, which give the Pont Neuf a fortified look, actually were balconies fitted on each of the columns that were used as boutiques by merchants and artisans. The boutiques disappeared in the mid-1800s.
At one end of the Pont des Arts is the Institut de France, home of the Academie Française, with its imposing cupola in the background and the Bibliothèque Mazarine in the foreground (initially this was the personal library of Cardinal Mazarin, who succeeded Cardinal Richelieu as chief minister of France under Louis XIII and XIV). At the other end is the "old Louvre," the palace built to replace the old medieval fortress of King Philip Augustus. to which subsequent wings and pavilions were added to extend the Palace to what it is today.
After crossing the Pont des Arts we headed to the easternmost façade of the Louvre, famous for Perrault’s Colonnade, with its 52 columns overlooking the Place du Louvre and, across the street, the church of Saint Germain l'Auxerrois and its distinctive bell tower. Way back when the Louvre was the royal palace, Saint Germain l'Auxerrois was its church. During the infamous Saint Bartholomew's Day Massacre in 1572, the church bells rang to signal the beginning of the slaughter of French Huguenots who were visiting the city for a royal wedding.
